A good bathroom mirror is the right width for the basin, hangs at a height everyone in the house can use, and copes with steam. If it has lights or a demister pad, it also needs to be rated for the part of the bathroom it will hang in and wired by a qualified electrician.
There are four main choices: a plain mirror, an illuminated LED mirror, a heated or demisting mirror, and a mirror cabinet that adds storage. Many products combine several of these, so it helps to decide which features you really need before comparing prices.
This guide covers sizing and position, the features worth paying for, and the electrical safety basics for UK bathrooms.
Types of bathroom mirror
| Type | Good for | Watch out for |
|---|---|---|
| Plain framed or frameless | Simple, cheap, no wiring | Steams up; frame must suit damp rooms |
| LED illuminated | Even light for shaving and make-up | Needs wiring or a shaver socket supply; check IP rating |
| Heated or demister pad | Clears steam after a shower | Needs a power supply; adds to cost |
| Mirror cabinet | Storage for small items | Depth projects from the wall; check door swing |
| Round or decorative | Style focus, smaller basins | Less useful width for two people |
You can compare all of these in the bathroom mirror range.
Size and position
As a general guide, choose a mirror no wider than the basin or vanity unit below it, or a few centimetres narrower, so it looks anchored. For a double basin, either one long mirror or two matching mirrors works. Leave a small gap above any tap or splashback.
Height is about eyes, not ceilings. Aim to have the centre of the mirror close to the average eye level of the people who use it, and check that the shortest and tallest can both see their faces. A taller, portrait mirror covers a wider range of heights than a short, wide one.
Other points to check:
- Wall fixings. Large mirrors are heavy. Check the weight on the product page and use fixings suited to your wall: plasterboard needs suitable cavity fixings or a fixing into a stud.
- Orientation. Many rectangular mirrors can hang either portrait or landscape. Make sure an LED mirror’s switch and wiring work in the orientation you want.
- Clearance for cabinets. A mirror cabinet projects from the wall; make sure the door does not hit a light, tap or window.
LED and heated mirrors
Illuminated mirrors light your face from the front, which reduces shadows compared with a single ceiling light. When comparing, look at:
- Colour temperature. Measured in kelvin. Around 3,000 K is warm white; 4,000 K to 6,500 K is cooler and closer to daylight. Some mirrors let you switch between them.
- Brightness and dimming. A dimmer is useful for night time.
- Switch type. Touch sensors and pull cords are common. Touch switches on the glass can show fingerprints.
- Demister. A heated pad behind the glass keeps a patch clear after a shower. It often switches on with the light.
- Shaver socket. Some mirror cabinets include one; it needs to be wired correctly.
For general room lighting around the mirror, the bathroom lighting range has wall and ceiling lights.
Bathroom zones and IP ratings
UK wiring rules divide a bathroom into zones around the bath and shower, and each has a minimum IP (ingress protection) rating for electrical items. The second number of an IP rating describes protection against water; IPX4 means protection against splashing.
| Zone | Where it is | Minimum rating commonly specified |
|---|---|---|
| Zone 0 | Inside the bath or shower tray | IPX7, low voltage only |
| Zone 1 | Above the bath or shower, up to 2.25 m from the floor | IPX4 |
| Zone 2 | 0.6 m out from the bath or shower edge, up to 2.25 m | IPX4 |
| Outside the zones | The rest of the room | No specific rating, but IPX4 is still sensible near water |
All bathroom circuits should also be protected by a 30 mA residual current device (RCD). An LED or heated mirror over a basin that sits in zone 2 needs at least IPX4, which most illuminated bathroom mirrors state on the product page. Electrical work in bathrooms should be done by a qualified electrician, who can confirm the zone and the right supply.
Materials and care
Bathrooms are damp, so the materials matter. Look for:
- Copper free or sealed silver backing, which resists the black edge spots that damp can cause.
- Polished or bevelled edges on frameless mirrors, which are safer and look neater.
- Moisture resistant frames: aluminium, stainless steel, plastic or sealed wood. Untreated wood and MDF can swell.
- Safety backing film on larger mirrors, which holds glass together if it breaks.
Clean with a soft cloth and a mild glass cleaner, and avoid spraying liquid directly at the edges where it can seep behind the glass. Good ventilation, such as an extractor fan, protects the mirror and the rest of the room. For storage around the basin, see the bathroom furniture and bathroom shelf ranges, and for the living room, the guide to choosing a sofa.
Quick checklist
- Match the mirror width to the basin or vanity unit.
- Hang it with the centre near eye level.
- Check the weight and choose the right wall fixings.
- Decide on lighting, demister and storage before comparing prices.
- Check colour temperature and switch type on LED mirrors.
- Confirm the IP rating suits the bathroom zone.
- Have a qualified electrician fit anything wired.
- Choose damp resistant backing and frame materials.
Common questions
How wide should a bathroom mirror be?
Usually the same width as the basin or vanity unit, or a little narrower. For a double vanity, one long mirror or two matching mirrors centred over each basin both work.
Can I plug an LED mirror into a shaver socket?
Some low power LED mirrors are designed for it, but many need a fixed wired supply. Check the product instructions and ask a qualified electrician.
What IP rating does a bathroom mirror need?
If it has lights or a heater and sits in zone 1 or zone 2, it needs at least IPX4. Outside the zones there is no specific minimum, but a splash resistant rating is still a good idea in a bathroom.
